EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore
Apr 7, 2025
Dr. Keith Baar is a leading expert in tendon and ligament engineering and repair. Natalie Gilmore is a PhD student focused on climbing-specific research. We talked about the results of their recent retrospective study, exciting new science, why “Abrahangs” improve force transfer, why progressively overloading them is a bad idea, protocols for finger health and strength, and more.
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Show Notes:
Related Podcast Episodes:
Resources:
Hangboard Training 2 Times Per Day For 30 Days — Emil Abrahamsson
How To Build Finger Strength (SCIENCE EXPLAINED) — Emil with Keith Baar
Keith & Natalie’s Links:
Nuggets:
00:00:00 – Intro
00:03:03 – Keith’s background
00:10:05 – Natalie’s background
00:13:08 – The “Abrahangs” retrospective study
00:17:56 – Natalie’s experience with “Abrahangs”
00:18:52 – The limitations of a retrospective
00:22:41 – Exciting new studies
00:32:09 – What’s happening with “Abrahangs”?
00:41:33 – Is there a “best” protocol?
00:46:40 – Balancing tendon health & stiffness
00:57:00 – Recommendations
01:06:03 – A cautionary tale
01:08:36 – Low-jerk isometrics
01:13:46 – Can “Abrahangs” increase training capacity?
01:15:42 – Summary
01:16:19 – Keith & Natalie’s dream studies
01:19:25 – Wrap up